by The menswear shows invaded Paris and Milan, closing only last night.
And while it was the F’rows that made the news: Timothée Chalamet at Loewe! Kylie Jenner in Margiela! David Beckham at Dior! – there was a lot of inspiration to take from the runway. And most pleasant of all, you may already have a few of the AW23 staples hanging in your closet.
These are the top tips for looking chic this year, guys:
The biker relaxes
Got your vintage racing leather jacket, but got the pants to match? In Milan, Gucci sent a buttery-smooth black pair with statement kneepads, worn with a matching jacket and slim slip-on mules. Marine Serre was styled with orange and snake print accents by Seoul-based label Juun.J, who showcased a full biker-inspired collection that included distressed leather pants and classic denim biker pants, while Dsquared2 added a touch of blue and red for a speed demon, Formula One style.
Tartan tailoring
Tartan has been a mainstay throughout the European collections, spearheaded by Glasgow designer Charles Jeffrey who had his first Loverboy show in Milan this season. His signature blue and red check was dressed up in rugby shirts, striped cardigans and yellow face paint. Etro’s recently appointed creative director Marco de Vincenzo made smart Savile Row-style suits and Kenzo Nigo’s designer offered equally smart tartan: three-button plaid blazers, trousers and overcoats dressed in checkered shirts and ties . But it was KidSuper, who designed the host for Louis Vutton in lieu of a permanent replacement for Virgil Abloh, who had the most fun, cutting the check to a trippy effect.
Be brief
It might not be a look for everyone, but bare-legged looks were must-haves on the runways this season. At JW Anderson’s Milan show, bare-legged models in shearling-trimmed underwear and shearling jackets outnumbered the sporty ones. Elsewhere, JordanLuca teamed up with JD Sports favorite Lonsdale to make their own white briefs that were layered under a butterfly-print dress. The craze also took hold in Paris, from Lazoschmidl who paired skintight black trousers worn with hoodies and floral raincoats, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin, where logoed underwear was visible through white mesh, bodycon dresses. Again, one for the bravest souls.
The 70s collar
They didn’t sweep out every collection, but Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons went big on point collars at the Prada show in Milan. And if Miuccia and Raf call a trend, they invariably make money. The Pradas were detachable in a variety of colorful pop shades with contrasting mohair panels. The versatility was remarkable: tucked into boxy blazers, knee-length overcoats and fitted cardigans. How much do these slip-on collars cost retail? That was the question circulating online afterwards. Consent: around £500. If that sounds like a mouthwatering thing, head to your nearest vintage shop for an endless supply of wide-collared shirts. If you feel inclined to stick with the Prada look, reach for the scissors.
Disco vest
Among the more predictable waves of navy and camel menswear, a little glitz stands out. Perhaps the most surprising thing this season was the disco ball, sequined tank tops that popped up. One of Gucci’s closing looks set the tone: a shimmery silver tank top paired with dirty jeans, green monogram cowboy boots and a blue beanie. Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s rhinestone-encrusted mesh style had more of a clubland appeal than Dalston Superstore, while Dolce and Gabbana nailed the black tie version: jet-colored sequin, turtleneck vest with matching, flowy pants. Maybe one for Timothée Chalamet this awards season?
All packed up
In more established homes, huge draped blankets wrapped up some of the best looks. Fendi’s opening gray outfit came with a semi-geometric patterned cashmere shawl wrapped asymmetrically and tunic-style around the body. Giorgio Armani’s gray and navy chevron plaid came with a fluffy fur collar, while at Paul Smith it was an all-over cape that stole the attention: maroon, orange and brown splashes covered an almost floor-length, doubled with a loose, matching printed scarf. Not a bad option for tackling sub-arctic temperatures in the city this January.
