In the shadow of growing political divide, unrest in the US and Europe, and the continuing Russian invasion of Ukraine, the spring 2023 runway collections were surprisingly apolitical, aside from Ye’s controversial White Lives Matter T-shirts, which are revealed just a hint from the iceberg of his hate speech that continues to resonate as the brands separate from him.
But in Los Angeles, California, designer Lizzie Grover Rad doesn’t shy away from difficult topics; in fact, she is rushing to them, building her brand on igniting conversations about issues like reproductive rights (season 1) and the billionaire space race which is the next frontier for capitalism (season 2).
“You can look at it from many different angles, but it’s interesting that the people with the most money all have the same goal,” Rad said during a preview of his second collection. “I wonder if there is anything more that we don’t know … Deep state stuff,” she smiled, adding that she likes “to hit the patriarchy.”
“There is also an obvious environmental angle, so this is a part of the collection,” he said, emphasizing a corset and pants set in a print developed from a 16th-century apocalyptic oil painting, depicting ghouls, hounds and beheadings, including the other heartbreaking scenes. “This is from a fragment of a ‘Mars God of War’ tapestry that refers to the violence of man and the lengths to which we will go in all research throughout history,” he said of another press.
After seeing it online, Rad licensed the artwork, another guideline of his approach. For her first season, in April, she commissioned feminist artists Aline Kominsky-Crumb and her daughter Sophie Crumb to create an original comic called “4 Shades of Abortion” about their miscarriages over a span of 53 years, showing the difference between Aline pre-Roe abortion v. Wade in the United States and Sophie’s abortion in the early 2000s in France, an overall more enjoyable experience.
Rad also drew on references to “The Scarlet Letter” on a beautiful midnight blue silk boxy blazer with Nathanial Hawthorne’s quote, “He hadn’t known weight until he felt freedom,” on the back. The pieces on the net with graphic representations of an idealized female body also speak of issues of liberation and objectification. 25% of the proceeds from the first collection went to the Yellow Hammer Fund, an organization for reproductive justice in the Deep South.
His collections, with pieces ranging from $ 150 to $ 10,000, are made in Los Angeles and for now sold directly to the consumer. But Rad hopes to find a retail partner.
“Business is good, abortion is clearly a difficult topic to put on and start with, but I was very impressed with it,” said Rad, who started out in interior design, co-founding the Hutch app and raising money. venture capital from Tinder co-founder Sean Rad, among others.
The two entrepreneurs ended up getting married, and last year Architectural Digest called their gorgeous Jane Hallworth-designed Hollywood Hills home “the hippest ticket in town” with its double-height living room and idiosyncratic home offices. .
Clearly, if not billionaires, they have millionaire tastes. In Lizzie Grover Rad’s office, there’s a huge disco dance, which she distressed herself by hand, along with furnishings by Osvaldo Borsani, Gio Ponti, Gabriella Crespi, and an orgiastic painting by George Condo.
Without a doubt, there is a bad side to Rad, whose latest collection features a denim jacket with the image of a 1970s male pornstar holding a rocket that shoots like a phallus and a dress draped with a subtle scene in flagrant crime. On the activist front, a T-shirt with the battle cry “Make Mars a Matriarchy” can be worn with white jeans printed with Galileo’s designs of the lunar surface.
There are also more discreetly elegant pieces, including a stunning bronze “Andromeda” column dress with fringes and beads, a black velvet jacket with silver thread embroidery that references conspiracy theories around crop circles and an ivory slip cut on the bias “stardust” scattered that looks at the cosmos.
The centerpiece is a draped brown silk gala gown that can be worn with a 3D printed chimpanzee on the shoulder, attached by magnet, as a vision of an alternate story, perhaps, for Ham and the other monkeys and monkeys launched into space against. their will during the space race.
“The one we will climb to get to the next chapter is represented by Ham at a few different points in the collection,” he said, adding that he could wear the dress at the LACMA Art + Film gala. She has already worn what she calls the “cunnilingus” dress to a dinner in the gallery.
What if he saw Jeff Bezos or Elon Musk wearing his billionaires in space pieces? “They might appreciate it, how can you not laugh. You could make a friend. “
And definitely start a conversation.